Thread: How to adjust fog lights?

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How to adjust fog lights?

My passenger fog is kinda pointing down.. falls short of the driver’s side. Is there an adjustment screw to bring it back up? I couldn’t find one behind the fog. little help? No DIY or other threads about this specifically.

check your mounting bracket, it might sagged or loose

Can it be ‘adjusted’? Anybody who’s had to do this before. I checked the bracket, and it looks like it’s screwed in but it moves back and forth (sort of swings there..). My Bentley doesn’t have anything on adjusting it, in fact it only talks about removing the actual fogs not the brackets. is there a tab broken or something maybe?

I think that there is a screw. By tightening or loosening it you can angle the fog light up or down. It’s on the back of the bracket so It would probably be easiest to just pop your bumper off to get at it. It’s a white plastic screw, kinda hard to explain.

Pop my bumper off, yeah, that’s what I wanted to hear. Damn brake cooing duct is in the way, it might be easier to drop that out than remove the bumper, although bumper is not hard either. this would be a TON easier if it was on the driver’s side. oh well, Murphy’s law right?

find the hole used to pop out the foglight bracket and then use the one directly below it to adjust the alignment. you’re going to need a long thin phillips head I believe. I haven’t had to adjust mine in 6 years so it’s vague to me.

Be careful, I just screwed mine up real bad the other day. no pun intended.

I stripped the screw entirely because it was so rusted/worn, and had to crack the mount to get it out and put a dif. home screw in to hold it in place.

I’ll post some pictures on where it’s at, gimme a few minutes.


EDIT: oops, I forgot my camera isn’t at my house right now. I’ll post later tonight.

the brackets are so weak you might snap it outright, but like they said earlier just use the screws from the ontside vents on the bumper to adjust that sucker.

Cool peeps, thanks everybody for help. it looks really stupid to have a really sharp cut-off line from my fogs 5 ft in front of my car. I’ll get my drop light and get down and look behind it to see if I can find that adjustment screw, and then try to use the side screws down a little tighter!

Oh, BTW if you are looking for some good Euro bulbs for your fogs, get the OSRAM-Silvania Silverstars (US). They are AWESOME! Super bright and very good color — not fake HID look but around 4500K! Much nicer! And they don’t have the stupid glare that PIAAs or other bulbs have! Not really cheap, but I’d say worth the money really.

Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 09-18-2004 at 03:52 PM .

Man, these E36 fog lights really SUCK. : So far, I bought the Euro Crystal fogs in the EG GB. Made by DEPO, they are really nice! The problem is that they are a little thicker glass, and for some reason when I try adjust them up they don’t clear the top of the bumper insert. The other problem is that these stupid fog light mounts/brackets are CRAP! I used the original ZKW, and the new DEPOS (the zkw’s were better), and they both suck. The head of the adjustment screw is kind of hexagonally round (if you can picture that), and it is held in this plastic bracket so that it can kind of screw in at an angle to that bracket. The tighter it goes the more stress gets placed on the plastic piece and POW! the damn sucker comes undone, which means you need to remove your bumper to fix it again. For some reason I can’t make it tight enough so that it will face up high enough to actually shine out like a fog/driving light should (I removed the bulb reflector from the middle with a little tin-snip handywork, so it’s just the bare bulb now — kinda like the H7 conversion mod but still using my H1’s). Anyways, I think I may have to fabricate some piece that will go in between the bracket and the bumper so that the bracket starts a little facing up already. Not looking like fun, but if I can’t get these fogs facing up, then it’s useless. I also will try dremmeling the bumper a little bit because there is a lip that comes inward and I think the fog might be hitting that preventing it from facing more up also. I’ll keep y’all posted, and I’ll post pics with my dope fogs!

Last resort might be.. .get a phillips head screw with the same thread and a larger head that has an inset ‘v’ style head so that it can move a little, and just get rid of the stupid plastic piece all together. Won’t know until tonight, hardware store is closed. So, tonight I dremmel, tommorrow I shine. We’ll see.

Crap. Both my fogs are kinda pointing low. I also go those new Euro fogs. Looks like im going to have the same headachs as u

Please, don’t get me wrong. It’s not really the Euro fogs that are the problem.. althouth they are a little bigger than the OE ZKW’s. The problem is the brackets are not designed to sustain the preasure of adjusting them that much higher. it’s pretty stupid actually. I just finished dremmeling out the excess lip on the OE 328i E36 bumper, and there is now plenty of clearance for the Crystal fogs. Dremmeling may not be necessary, but since I removed the center refractor and am using mine more like driving lights, I want them pointed a little higher.

There is still a problem however. When you get to a certain point when adjusting the screws, the adjustment screw is still coming out of the plastic holder. I have to go to Home Depot tommorrow anyways because I am building a fence, so I am going to buy a screw that will work well. I have an extra screw from the DEPO bracket so I’ll get two washers to act as a swivel grommet and I’ll get a screw with a counter-sunk head so it’ll swivel around on top of the two washers. Then I don’t have to worry about the friggin screw coming undone from the plastic holder thingy. It’s rediculous that they thought that part would last any amount of time, it’s just soft plastic, and it doesn’t even completely encapsulate the screw, it’s just sort of ‘pinching’ it between four points. Bad form, Zeek. I’ll post results tommorrow, and since I’m taking out that plastic thing I’ll post pics between the two.

Keep ya posted y’all.

Sounds good man. I should be getting mine in the mail today. Im wanting to use them for driving lights also. Living out in the country all lighting is needed. Im sure ill understand more of what your talking about when i start on my fogs.

If you want to convert the crystal fogs, you need a pair of straight tin snips that are fairly slim. Mine aren’t super slim,but they got in there just the same. First you take off the back of the fog light cup. — On a side note, when you get your crystal fogs, try and use as much of the OE stuff you can. When I got my DEPO’s, for some reason the plug faced down instead of straight back, so I used the plug-cup, brackets, and mounts from my orginal fogs. —

Okay, after you have the rear cup off, you have to take out the bulb, and then take out the clip that holds the bulb in. Then you’ll see four screws holding on the bulb-plate. Undo those and put them aside (I put everything in the cup). That plate will be held on with sealent. Use an exacto or box knife and just cut around it. After that it should come off easy. Now you should have a hole in the back ALMOST the same size as the reflector. it’s actually just a shave smaller, just small enough you can’t just pull it out. What I did was I just started snipping at the deflector. I started cutting lines up the side of it to the crown of the deflector, and eventually I could cut away small pieces and pull them out or they’d drop out. Basically I did this until I cut enough pieces out that the deflector could be twisted up a little and shrunk so it could be pulled out of that hole. Unfortunately there is no way to gaurantee that if you do this you won’t scratch the reflector housing a little, but it’s insignificant because it’s right in the center, and the outer housing should be without a scratch, AND you’ll have a whole HELL of a lot more light coming out without that stupid deflector. I have to caution you that it now makes that light non-DOT compliant, as an H1 bulb does not have a filament cap to keep glare out of nosy driver’s eyes, but as long as you aim it right so it’s not in a state troopers face, you shouldn’t have a problem.

Another tip I suggest highly is Osram/Silvania Silverstar bulbs. Absolutely bright, and very nice white about 4500k. They even say Osram Germany on the back. Silvania Silverstar bulbs are Osram Silverstar bulbs (+50% more light than standard halogen) that have an amethyst looking coating that makes the light very white/HID looking.. so overall they put out about 30% more light than most halogens. I’ll post pics because I have them in my Hella Ellipsoids too.

Why don’t you just wedge something in under the lenses to lift them up?

Well, I could be then I figure out a way to keep it there and stuff. I think the light fabrication work will pay off.. and I’m getting the screws from Home Depot tonight. Maybe it’ll be a «solution Mod» that we could put in the DIY write-ups. we’ll see how it works. The other problem was the top of the fog hitting the ‘lip’ on the inset of the fog opening in the bumper, but that’s gone now!

K got the fogs.. They look great. How do i get the fogs out of my bumper? I dont see anything to do I took out some screw i seen and wiggles but not coming loose. How do I do this?

Okay, on your grill insert next to your fog light there are two small openings. One is just about at the top of the fog, and one is on the bottom. If you look towards your fog from the center of your car you can see the two holes I’m talking about. The top hole allows you to push a screwdriver in there to press a lever that will pop out your fog.. .and be careful I do MEAN POP! More fogs have broken falling out of the bumper and on the ground that way. Then you take you new fogs and pop them in — see the knobs at the top and bottom of the fogs on the outside edge? Those go into to little ‘catches’ on the bracket, then you push on the other side and it should ‘click’ into place. I say should because the new fogs housing is a little tight and you may have to push kinda hard. Before you put in the fogs however, see how on the new ones the plug recepticle is facing down? that is a PITA when trying to insert them, so I would use the recepticle cup from your old fogs for the new fogs. They work just fine too.. That’s how you change them. Will it be perfect? No. You may have to fidget with them, and of course there is the whole adjustment screw issue.. which leads me to my next post! What a lead-in.

Okay remember the adjustment screw issues? Basically, there is a socket type plastic thing that the end of the this round/hexagonal screw head fits into. It sort of ‘pops’ into it, and it is a pressure style socket. On the front side of this plastic socket is where you put your philips screwdriver to adjust your fogs. Problem is, and especially for the Euro Crystal fogs, the tighter you go the more stressed is placed on that socket, and since it’s already worn out over time, the adjustment screw pops out (I can’t think of a better word for ‘pop’, sorry). Then you are SOOOOO SOL because the only way to correct it is to remove your bumper. I suppose you could remove ALL of your brake ducts, splash gaurd, etc etc and try to play with it from there, but you don’t have an angle to get leverage to push it back into the socket. believe me I tried. It’s faster just to drop the bumper.. it only takes a minute.

Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 10-05-2004 at 04:00 AM .

So you’ve got this adjustment screw with the weird head that won’t stay in place. This is a problem. The other problem MAY be clearance to adjust the fogs upward, but the best thing to do is to solve the adjustment screw issue, then dremmel excess bumper trim around the fog on the INSIDE of the bumper only if you need to. Now, my situation was a little different because I modified my fogs to be more like driving, so I wanted them a little higher than most, so this may not even be an issue for you..

So, what is the solution for the adjustment screw issue?? Glad you asked! The adjustment screw is a 5mm diameter ‘fine’-thread machine screw, that’s all. It just has this weird head, otherwise you can get this screw at Home Depot, Lowe’s, wherever. It is 40mm long but if you are trying to get it tighter than you can get a 30mm screw. Most 5mm won’t go to 40mm, and you don’t use 15mm of that original screw anyways. So, basically you can get this screw in many forms — hex-bolt style head, philips head, counter-sunk flat-head head : and, a nice little screw called a Socket-Cap-Head screw . That’s what I chose. I don’t like trying to mess with philips or flathead screws in confined places, and a socket is too big for that little space they give you to adjust. The socket-cap-head screw is perfect because you use a smaller alan wrench to insert it into the head, kinda the opposite of the hex-bolt head. This elliminates friction issues with philips/flathead, and space issues with others.

Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 10-05-2004 at 04:03 AM .

The second part of the equation is that stupid socket plastic thingy. WTF is that thing anyways? So, you pull it out. There is a little metal ring clip to keep it in that hole, but you can push hard, remove the clip, or just snip snip it right out, like I did. I don’t ‘f’ around. So, you have this hole where that socket used to be that is fairly larger than your nice new socket-cap-head screw. What do you do? Well, you also have to account for the fact that the screw is going to slightly change angle as you adjust, and move around within that larger hole. I simply made a customized ‘boot’ from two washers. Take a 5mm rounded edge flat washer and put in on the screw. Then, take a 7mm also rounded edge flat washer and put THAT on the screw. Now feed the screw through the hole where the socket used to be, and looky there you have a screw that won’t go through but has plenty of play! Imagine that! All you have to do is hand screw the cap screw into the hole where the funky old screw came out of and BAM! You’re done. You don’t have to worry about it coming undone, it’s HELLA easy to adjust and will hold much much stroger. Now you can adjust your fogs with ease and be sure they stay there. You might notice that when you are handling the bracket before you re-mount it, the screw won’t go back out, but it seems like it might go in, like it might move around as you are driving. Don’t worry, I thought of that too. This won’t be an issue, because once you mount it and re-install it in your bumper gravity takes over and the weight of the fog lamp counter-balances the urge for the screw to try to move in more. it stays tight. This might not make sense until you actually do this. I think the old plastic socket tried to accomplish this because the whole thing would stay solid-state as you adjusted it, but it didn’t account for the weakness of the whole thing. Anyways, I might do a write-up on this, and I didn’t take any pictures so if you have questions post up and we’ll bang it out. Good luck!

Oh, so here is your DIY list:

2x: 5mm diameter x 30mm long metric socket cap screw;
2x: 5mm flat washer with rounded edges (not ROUND, just not sharp edges);
2x: 7mm flat washer with rounded edges;
1x: 4mm or 5mm alan wrench (depends on cap screw head, probably will be 4mm);

I am so happy that I don’t have to worry about my fogs anymore, or that I don’t have to dread the PITA when adjusting them. Hope this works for you!

Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 10-05-2004 at 04:07 AM .