Speaker Upgrade in Murano SV



I have a 2017 MO SV and was wondering about speaker upgrades for the audio system. Specifically, anyone have any tips on install, leads on good Sub woofers (that could possibly fit in the spare compartment, like in the Platinum’s with the Bose systems), and recommendations for amps?





hey there blackwatch. Welcome to the wonderful world of improving the dismal sound of any of the muranos lol.

Swapping the speakers in the door are cake. You will need an adapter from Crutchfield to install the 6 1/2″ speakers in the doors. They also have adapters to take the factory speaker wire connection to two that will fit on your replacement speaker. Replacing the stock speakers in the SV is a great start. Both they and the Bose ones are extremely cheap poor quality speakers. If you are going to replace the speakers I’d go with both sets of doors and both dash speakers in your SV. The dash ones will need to have you cut the wires and either solder or crimp a wire to attach to the new ones. You can either crimp or solder depending on what you feel comfortable with. The dash will probably need to be opened up a bit to fit the dash speaker . Door are fine.

I also took a look at the stock ohm ratings of the factory. The dash is a 3.6 ohm speaker. Doors are 2.1 ohm. Speakers are a matter of preference and cost for what you will use. I’m using Focals in mine but that is something you would need an amp for. Something to think about down the road and would be well worth the money to purchase and install. I bought a JL Audio XD800 (8 channel) for $320! Used in perfect condition. If you don’t want to use an amp then you want to watch what ohm value for your replacement. Infinity has a set of speakers (Reference series) which would probably work out well. Both their 3 1/2″ and 6.5″ set is rated for 3 ohms. So your dash speakers will sound a bit louder and doors a bit softer. You may not notice much of a difference in sound levels but will be a more responsive speaker.

As for a sub. The bose tire mount one is garbage. If you wanted to add a sub I’d think more the route of getting a powered all in one sub from JL Audio. It’s amazing how much sound (bass) these give off. There is a variety of sizes from them — maybe a Microsub+ in either 8″ or 10″. You would need to have a lineout converter installed and take the signal to the sub . Also run power. I’d also recommend adding a separate volume control for the sub they sell and mount up by the driver console.

Alot really depends on your budget. I just went through a ton of research for an install . Good luck in whatever you decide.

BTW if you want to look up the Infinity speakers door ones are 6522ix, dash ones are 3022cfx.



One thing to keep in mind is that the front are component speakers ( tweeter and woofer) and the rear are coaxial.

The 2 tweeter location are on top of the dash, they are easily accessible, but you need to find the right adapter to fit your aftermarket tweeter in there, or do some modification to fit it as best as you can.

One thing I can tell you is that in the SV model, the weakest link is the head unit itself, not the speakers. The head unit has a very weak amplifier to drive the speakers, that’s why the sound is crappy.

Replacing just the speakers itself, might not be a significant upgrade unless you get rid of the head unit.



Looking for King Assad

Hello King Assad! My names Matt and I just got a 2016 nissan murano sv non bose model. I’m coming from a 2012 mazda 3 i touring with upgraded bose package with upgraded alternator, 2 Sundown Audio SA 12 REV 3 (750 RMS — Can easily push 1000 RMS each — Even seen 1200 Each Sub — They are the entry level competition series for Sundown audio — Meant for SPL Competitions) in a sealed manufacturer’s specific custom spec box in the trunk. They are powered by an Orion XTR 2500.1dz mono block amp that was dyno tested with purchase birth certificate of 2900 watts RMS. I am a DJ with 50,000 watts at my club and i might die if i don’t get these awful factory sound system replaced. I drive 80 miles a day there and back to my club.

So, after some research and considering i never had after market speakers im not going crazy on speakers i think ALPINE SPS 610’s fit my needs. $35/speaker: I know they are 6.5 in but will these fit the car door depth wise?
As well as the SA 12’s in the sealed box in the back.

Can you elaborate on the specs of the head unit? What is the max rms that i can get from speakers from that head unit? The 610’s are 80 watts RMS/Speaker. Do i need to upgrade the head unit and get 4 channel amplifier if i get 2 610’s coaxial + 2 610’s components? What about 4 610 coaxial’s with unplugging the tweeters? like u mentioned somewhere on this site i read to someone else. Do i need a 4 channel amp only with stock head unit or do i have to upgrade both? Any 4 channel amp suggestions for my 80 RMS x 4?

Im planning on getting secondary deep cycle battery regardless for my subs as my Orion xtr 2500.1dz was dyno tested with birth certificate at 2900 watts RMS when i purchased and i see mechman alternators are $474 270A for 2008-2016 nissan mo late 3.5 g series (best selling series).
What is the the stock alternator amps on 3rd gen nissan MO? Do i need to upgrade alternator for this setup? Or do i get a starter battery? Or a secondary battery near amp? Whats the difference?

P.s. My Sealed box i cant even push the subs past 25% power bc of air space from box i beleive. My mazda 3 had 47 cubic feet with seats down in trunk. Nissan MO has 70 Cubic feet with seats down and in same cabin. Maybe this will help with air some? I got the larger mono block orion xtr 2500.1dz on purpose so i didnt push the amp hot. even though this amp is starving for power. Lastly, Sir King Assad, What do you think i should do?



What you are trying to do? Turn your car into a club. lol

I think the secondary battery, new alternator is a little overkill. The stock battery (although I upgraded to the Optima Battery 8040-218 D35 YellowTop), and the stock alternator should be good enough for your need.

I don’t know the spec of the alternator on top of my head, but I am pretty sure it can handle 100+ amps, I have a 100amp fuse inline with the battery going to my 4-ch amp and my mono amp.

My 4-ch amp is an infinity 1000W (400W RMS) 100W per channel, I also have a mono amp Pioneer Gm-D9601 2,400-Watt powering my sub ( also a Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12″ 1,500 W MAX / 400 W RMS within an enclosure that sits in my trunk). If you are looking at RMS power, we are talking 66amp total. I have a voltage reader on my dash that is connected directly to my battery, so I can monitor it; it usually reads 14.4V. When I am playing music very loud, it usually drops to 13.8V, but I never saw it go lower. Which means the alternator is able to keep up with the power requirement of the amps. I have been running it for 2 years now, and sometimes I commute 3hrs listening to loud music, never saw a hiss or my lights flickering. My 4-ch amp gain is only 1/2 way though, so I am not really pushing it. The music gets really loud when I turn up the volume, I can feel the bass shaking the back window and my seat.

What I am trying to say is you might not need all that power, specially in a car environment, unless you are going to a car show and competing. I would concentrate on spending my money on your audio equipment, and then focus on the Bat/Alt if things do not work out.
Coaxial are great, I do not think you will noticed much difference between Coaxial and Component, specially if using an amp. Component are best though, specially in the front, because you will feel the sound surround you better, the murano has a good tweeter placement at ear level.
Coaxial in the front are easier, since all you have to do is disconnect the cable on the murano tweeter.
If you get component, then you will have to do more work to replace the tweeter and route the cables from your crossover to your new tweeters. It’s all a matter of preference, but either one will work great I think.

The stock head unit is rated at 40W /ch @ 2ohm.
I can tell you for sure that the weakest link in the murano is the amp in the head unit, very weak sound processor. If you get an amp, it will for sure improve the sound, but you will be amplifying a sound that is already amplified by the head unit, so you might not get all the bells and whistle or a clean sound. You will have to experiment wit this, as I have never tried it. Some 4-chn amps have both high level inputs (speaker level) and pre-amp inputs, which means you can tap directly into the stock head unit without too much distortion.

I trashed my head unit all together the minute I bought the car.

Your speakers should fit deapth-wise, the door is pretty deep (hallow).

Since you are an audiophile, an amp is a must, you will never get the sound you are craving for without an external amp, the speakers will only come alive when powered with an ext amp, a Sub will definitely complement that. The murano trunk has ample space for a sub placement, so no issues there.

I would first replace all 4 speakers, and see the difference it makes, this might not improve the sound to the level you want because you are still dealing with the stock head unit.
Then add the 4ch amp and mono amp for the subs, this should make it louder, but might still be lacking sound quality.
If still not happy with the sound, then replace the head unit.
If you want to keep the head unit, then you can get and additional sound processor to improve the sound quality. I do not have any experience with that, but another member PaulDay has done something similar while keeping his head unit, he has the Bose though.

One thing I can tell you is that this is a lot of work if you want to do it right, so take your time.
If putting an external amp, you should get power directly from battery by routing your cable through the firewall. I had to learn the hard way when I tried to power my amp through the fuse block, although I was experimenting, I was blowing out fuses like pop corn.

No need for the «BIG 3 UPGRADE», the murano power/ground cable from the alternator are pretty thick and good quality.
GND to the amp can be connected to the car chassis.

Most of the audio stuff I did to my car, I documented here also. Through trial an error, I was able to get it to the point where I am satisfied with the results.