Thread: What oil to use ?

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  • Join Date Nov 2015 Location Sydney Posts 555

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    What oil to use ?

    G’day guys
    I am running my pulsar in the pulsar series i do an oil change every round, I run an oil filter re-locator and an oil cooler i am using 10w30 Penrite 10/10ths seams to be good what are others using ?

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    0w? Gee that’s pretty thin. Has the engine been reco’d or something?
    Racing temps with factory engine clearances, I thought most people would op for 10 or 15.

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    The 0W is the cold viscosity (the W stands for winter) — it’s irrelevant for racing temperatures

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    I’m also using Penrite 10/10’s Racing but 10W40 for two reasons:
    1) Autobarn and SuperCheap and Repco in my area don’t stock the 10W30 🙁
    2) My engine is a sloppy (and gutless) old dog

    It’s not a true 40 anyway, more like a 30+

    Seems good, engine sounds nicer than when I obtained the car (was in terrible mechanical condition)
    I used the same oil in 3 rounds (no oil cooler) — just done an oil change ready for the next round

    One thing about sloppy engines, they are pretty happy to rev, just takes it’s time getting there (fingers crossed it does not let go)

    Last edited by Martin; 04-11-2015 at 09:46 AM .

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    Back to school for me

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    Out of the nissan service manual,
    Lots of people say it doesn’t seem right,
    But all I can say is its straight from nissan and they should know best

    Last edited by Boosted VLAD; 05-11-2015 at 01:02 PM .

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    Yeah — there will be a reason behind their recommendations (I wish they would provide the reasons)
    For example it’s common for engines with variable valve timing to not like thick oil because the VVT oil channels are tiny

    With regard to the above not recommending 0W unless it’s a very cold environment,
    maybe the oil drains too easily while not in use, resulting in less lubrication at start up

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    caltex havoline is best engine oil

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    maybe in pakistan.lol

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    There are many good oils out there for sure
    The problem is many manufacturers use the same brand name across a wide range of products, from mineral to semi-synthetic to fully synthetic to racing oils
    e.g. Havoline Formula (mineral), Havoline Synthetic Blend, Havoline Fully Synthetic
    Same with Castrol Edge, Shell Helix, etc, etc
    For this reason it’s not valid to generalize about a brand being the best

    As the Pulsar Challenge engines are all stock, any SM or SN rated oil is probably going to be ok
    Especially as many competitors appear to be doing frequent oil changes

    We’ve had a fair few crank seizures but I think that’s more to do with the old condition of the engine/bearing and clearance issues

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    Very, very long, but very, very worthwhile read. Frictional surfaces inside your engine (bearings/journals, pistons/bores, etc.) don’t actually come into contact with each other when the engine is running; if they did, even for a second or two, it would cause significant damage. A very thin (thousands, if not ten thousandths of an inch) film of oil is sandwiched between the two surfaces allowing them to ‘float’ on it. As your motor runs, forces are generated between these surfaces that must be resisted by the film of oil; the film’s ability to resist these forces is called its strength (film strength).

    If the forces applied to your connecting rods are of a higher lbs/square inch of force than your film strength can support, the oil film will fail and the journal and bearing will make contact and damage will occur.

    Film strength changes with temperature because the viscosity of fluid decreases as it is heated, so the hotter your oil gets, the ‘thinner’ it gets (imagine honey at room temperature, and honey after it’s heated up in the microwave). Oil is generally designed to operate at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, or 100 degrees Celsius. The first number in your oil’s viscosity grade, the one with the W, is the cold viscosity (W is for Winter); this is the viscosity of your oil at (usually) 32 degrees Fahrenheit, or 0 degrees Celsius. This is why it’s not a good idea to thrash your car when it’s cold, as your oil is not at its ideal temperature (it’s thicker than it will be at operating temperature) and is not protecting frictional surfaces to it’s maximum capacity.

    Anyway, film strength is probably the most important aspect of the oil that goes into your engine, regardless of the viscosity rating. I have been using 5W-30 Mobil 1 API-SN Synthetic for years. I moved away from it for a while and tried numerous other oils, including Penrite 10 Tenths, Royal Purple, and others, but after reading the initial link I posted, I have gone back to Mobil 1 5W-30 and will never use anything else, unless I can get my hands on one of the higher rated oils mentioned in the list (but they’re not sold here in Australia). I also refuse to use oils with third party additives, even though some tested very well, but that’s just a personal preference.

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