I’m driving in the evening and it’s somehow a bit dark . It seems that it used to be brighter from the headlights of the Pyzh. I stopped, I look: the lamp of the left neighbor does not burn. Well, I think I’ll change it tomorrow. Tomorrow I look, and the second went out! Although, quite recently they were replaced . I decided to walk in a circle and check the whole world. And not in vain, because. the right foglight also joined the non-working neighbors. Scheme Front headlight Scheme Fog headlight I went to the car market and bought lamps: — low beam H7 2 pcs. Manufacturer:

Hello! The hood.))) When there is nothing to do, and the hands itch, an unhealthy attention to detail begins.) In general, everything works and functions normally in the car, but sometimes it is useful to prevent something, so that there would be fewer problems in the future. And I decided get to the connector under the battery boxes and find out its condition, because the work of electricians depends on it. Open the hood, remove the cover from the battery box. I waited five minutes to put the BSI to sleep and removed the quick release

Hello! Although the bortovik is empty, 205 is not abandoned. A few days ago he arrived from a trip that I had dreamed of for many years. Anniversary 205 GTi in Sochaux, France. While I prepare the text, here are a couple of photos for the seed. Still thesis and almost online can be seen on Instagram: Mileage: 200,000 km

On the drive was absent for a very long time. During this time in hp. many letters have been written. Naturally, they remained unanswered. No offense. I, too, am a person with a bunch of my own problems and affairs. But you should often pay attention to when the user last visited the site. This is indicated next to the avatar under the nickname. Call if you really need. There will be an opportunity to answer. +375445843727 Permanent presence on the site is not planned yet. P.s. many letters are never read. No time and normal internet

Good evening. Since the purchase of Bears, there was a small, not at all noticeable failure during acceleration. What I just didn’t do was change the injectors, clean them. Measured pressure. It seems to be normal, but when the gas hits the floor, it drops to 2.6, 2.7 bar and immediately stabilizes. What knocked me down, I didn’t think that the fault of all the troubles, it was the RDT that was to blame. And how much did the poor DMRV get))) But it turned out that everything was elementary. The response to the gas is instant, without any problems. On the old RDT, the arrow constantly marasily,

Once, having arrived home, the engine began to troit strongly and there was a slash of exhaust gases. The antifreeze is gone. It was decided to raise the cylinder head and as it turned out for good reason. Drove it into the garage and away we go. Parsing. The beginning of all beginnings Raised the valve, everything is fine It took a lot of time to disassemble everything, then there is no key, then it does not unscrew, but everything turned out well. I took out the cylinder head with a turbine, separately it will take more time. Without the cylinder head, the cylinder head was not very presentable, the channels are red, in corrosion. There are three

Thread cut 16×1.5 instead of 14×1.25 (native). I cut it without removing the pallet, while smearing the tap with graphics. So that the chips stick to the tap. The evenness of threading was controlled by a nut screwed onto the tap. That is, we bait the tap, take it out and then screw the nut onto it and tighten it tightly to the pallet. As the thread was cut, he tightened the nut, thereby controlling the plane, so that the nut would always be pressed exactly along the plane. New oil, filter and all. Lucky it came up

Before the inspection, it turned out to knock out two days at work to repair the car and away we go. 1. Replacing the front shock absorbers 2. At the same time supporting bearings 3. Support pads At the same time replacing the anthers of the axle shaft and ball joint oil seal in the box, for replacement On the right, I also changed the stabilizer rod, in general, the front suspension

Hi all! Actually, such a question is, due to age, the gear knob in my 406 fell into disrepair (cracked) ((Which of the owners of 406 solved the issue of replacing it (buy a used one or a new one from China?)

So, a year and 10k km have passed since the previous filter change. It’s time to change the engine air filter and fuel filter. The replacement process was described above, it is simple. But the condition of the air filter. Hmm, probably followed a smoky truck, but it’s still kind of overkill. Too grubby. Mileage: 162000 km

Hello! Today we will talk about correcting some of the stocks on the body from the date of purchase of the car. Rear bumper molding, right side. Also, on the right side of the rear wing, there was a dent hastily knocked out from the back. I think this is all the result of some kind of action that happened on the eve of the sale of the car. For I don’t see another explanation for such a clumsy knocking out of a dent. Well, okay. So I drove for five years, only later the varnish began to peel off in this place

Hello! I want to tell you about the work done and its results. A little earlier, I wrote that there were reasons to get into the engine, and I still decided on it. Gave the car to a friend and away we go. What was done by the capital can hardly be called, but it helped my engine. An autopsy showed that the hone in the sleeves (for 200,000 runs) is still excellent, which means it will live. The reason for the oil burner was in the oil scraper rings, they were heavily clogged. And of course the valve stem seals were

In the summer the stove stopped working. The speed was no longer regulated, the motor was spinning at the smallest speed, it did not react to the adjustment. Climbing on the drive, I realized that there can basically be two reasons, in the motor itself or in the resistance (hedgehog). Since I have climate control, the resistance is on the motor itself. Having removed the motor, I connected it directly from the battery, it works perfectly, it turns like crazy. I decided to change the resistance. I also read that you can remove the protective

Hello. In that year, when I went through the caliper, it was already clear then that it was necessary to change the edge of the right caliper bracket. She was boiled in three places. At the same time, the piston was also replaced, although it could still be left for a year. TRW staple, the quality is good, it immediately came assembled, which pleased me. It already had guides, anthers. Everything was smudged, and profusely. But in the box there was still a bag of lubricant. All good brakes)! P. S The photo shows the old guides that I lubricated

Good day! Peugeot 308, after 30 minutes of movement, the car starts to dull at idle, and at low revs, if you raise the speed (up to 2000), then the car levels out, but not for long, due to a malfunction, the system turns off cylinder 3, if after a while you restart the car, then everything for exactly 10 minutes, and then it repeats, a malfunction, a slightly enriched mixture, new candles, working coils, working nozzles, a valve lift mechanism, compression 12-13, everything was checked, only the cylinder head or the piston itself remained. What could be the problem? (Alexei)

Hello Alexey. The problem of engine stalling is quite common, we will try to give you practical recommendations on how to solve this problem.

Why does the car stall?

As a rule, the car stalls at idle if there are any problems with the ignition. This may be a malfunction of the coil, candles, high-voltage wires, distributor cover, runner or coal. This means that you need to take the time to diagnose all these components.

However, you noticed that your engine is too lean. We suspect this is the reason. What can be the reason for the low enrichment of the mixture?

And there may be several reasons:

  1. The most common cause is dirt ingress. Debris can clog not only filters, but also nozzles. From this, although the fuel enters the engine, but not to the full extent, accordingly, the car will periodically stall.
  2. The second reason is the presence of dirt in the air flow regulator, this problem is also quite common, so we advise you to pay attention to it.
  3. External air intake. In the event that a crack or hole appears in any pipe connected to the intake manifold, the suction will be incomplete. In addition, the pipe, in principle, can depressurize, or the clamps are simply poorly tightened. In addition, air can enter the intake manifold if the EGR valve is not closed tightly. It is necessary to check the tightness of the collectors, as well as all pipes and hoses.
  4. A vacuum leak that needs to be repaired very quickly.
  5. The EGR pressure regulator failed. Carry out its diagnostics and, if necessary, replace it.
  6. The fuel pump is out of order or the filter element is clogged. In the event that the fuel pump does not work correctly, that is, not at full strength, then the car will behave just like in your case. If the pump fails, the engine will no longer be able to start. But if it does not work correctly or the filter is partially clogged, then everything will be just like yours. Diagnose and, if necessary, replace the elements.
  7. The oxygen flow or air flow regulator is out of order. The performance of these components must be checked.

Video «An example of solving a problem on a carburetor car»

How the problem is solved in the case of a carburetor engine — look at the video.

» Peugeot stalls, causes and malfunctions

Let’s figure it out together what affects the operation of the engine and why Peugeot stalls. The problems of stable engine operation are of concern to many car owners, including Peugeot car owners.

What can lead to unstable engine operation

  1. When trying to start the power unit.
  2. The stop occurs after the start of the motor.
  3. An unexpected turn is acquired by the situation when the engine stops while the vehicle is moving.

Let’s try to delve into the problem: determine the malfunction and possible methods for eliminating «technical diseases» of the engine.

The engine shows no signs of life

It is possible that the problem is in the starter, which does not turn. It’s easy to check. We insert the key into the ignition lock, turn it. If clicks are heard, then the starter is alive. How alive he is is checked by turning on the dipped or high beam headlights. If the clicks continue and the battery is not dead, the starter needs to be repaired. You can perform the dismantling procedure yourself, but on French cars, including the Peugeot 406, it is difficult to remove the starter. It will require the intervention of service station masters.

With dead silence of the engine, you can sin on a 20 amp fuse.

It happens that the problem is related to the wiring of the car. You need to scan. Diagnostics is best done at a service center.

The starter turns, but the car does not want to start.

This usually happens in winter at negative air t0. It is possible (as an option) by unscrewing the candles to heat them and install them hot in their place. Immediately try to start the power unit.

In addition to the above reasons for engine failure, there may be:

  • machine computer error;
  • jumped the GRU belt.

This is not a complete list of problems associated with the work of French cars, including Peugeot 406.

The problem that the engine will not start may be the lack of fuel in the carburetor. It is necessary to check, wash and blow out the fuel tank, filter. Check fuel pump, ignition system and carburetor choke.

Engine starts and stalls at idle

One of the reasons for stopping the engine after starting may be a false “activation” of the installed anti-theft system. It happens that the immobilizer has not received a deactivation command. Perceives an attempt to start as a hijacking.

A clogged idle valve can damage the engine. The resulting sediment on the parts of the element leads to unstable operation of the throttle. Therefore, it (the damper) wedges or does not work smoothly: jerkily. A dirty sensor transmits a command (erroneous data) as a result of which, immediately after starting the engine, it stalls. In addition, the problem may be:

  1. Poor quality fuel.
  2. Technical liquids. In particular, engine oil, which should be changed as soon as possible to avoid serious problems.
  3. The formation of an air lock in the main fuel line will lead to malfunctions of the engine.
  4. Faulty exhaust gas circulation sensor. Clogging is a direct path to blocking the power unit.
  5. Dirt accumulated in the air or fuel filter indicates problems with the engine. Timely maintenance will help to avoid such problems.
  6. A faulty oxygen sensor can serve as a stumbling block.

The stable operation of the engine can be affected by a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor, the car starts and stalls in just a minute of operation. At idle, the power unit stalls if the idle adjustment of the engine is violated. Adjustment required.

The car started and stalled. The reason for such strange behavior may be a drainage tube through which air is sucked in. It needs to be changed. The problem may be the carburetor idle economizer control unit, as well as connecting hoses.

The car started up and stalled: the pneumatic valve may have been damaged or failed. And also stopping the engine after starting provokes a faulty carburetor: clogged jets, water, diaphragm tightness, problems associated with the ignition system.

A running car may stall if there is no contact or the battery terminals are oxidized. On diesels, the preheating system of the power unit failed.

A running car with a gasoline power plant may stall if the fuel injection system is damaged.

If we talk about the problems of the 307 model, then a faulty flow meter or fuel pump (dirty filter) causes the engine to stop after starting.

Peugeot 307 models may stall at idle if the fuel supply from the tank is stopped. It is necessary to clean the mesh in the tank with ultrasound. Perhaps she got pissed off.

Engine stalls while driving

If Peugeot stalls while driving, you need to know the reasons for effectively combating this phenomenon. Overheating of the power unit. Peugeot 206 often sins with this. Which leads to overheating:

  1. Loose alternator belt. It needs to be tightened and adjusted.
  2. Liquids in the cooling system are below the established norm. It needs to be topped up to the correct level.
  3. Ignition timing incorrectly set. Adjustment will solve this problem.
  4. A faulty thermostat can lead to an engine stop, including a Peugeot 206 car. Replacement of the problem node is inevitable.
  5. The outer surface of the radiator clogged with dirt and debris. You will need to rinse it with running water under pressure.
  6. Problems, including Peugeot 406 models, can create a faulty coolant pump.

The problems can also include the knock of connecting rod or main bearings of the crank / shaft. Knocking pistons, intake and exhaust valves, problems with the camshaft drive. Insufficient or excessive technical / oil pressure on a “warmed up” power unit (when the engine is idling).

Problems of unstable operation of the power unit can cause its overheating and high fuel consumption.

It can be stated that with the modernization of cars, the number of malfunctions grows in proportion to progress. There is a certain amount of sarcasm and irony in this.

But, speaking seriously, it is necessary to know the reasons for the failure of the power unit. This will allow you to feel more confident behind the wheel under any circumstances.

Nobody says that you can fix all the problems with your own hands, no. But knowledge is power, you see!

It’s up to you to decide which path to take. The main thing, in this matter, is the result, and of high quality. Otherwise, you can not do without surprises on the road and additional overhead costs for repeated repairs.

Why does the engine stall — the reasons for stopping the engine in the car?
Causes of white smoke from the exhaust pipe Diesel does not start, malfunctions and causes
Peugeot phase solenoid valve — replacement and features of work
Antifreeze leaves the expansion tank — causes and solutions
Symbols for icons on the instrument panel — what they mean

I’m driving in the evening and it’s somehow a bit dark . It seems that it used to be brighter from the headlights of the Pyzh. I stopped, I look: the lamp of the left neighbor does not burn. Well, I think I’ll change it tomorrow. Tomorrow I look, and the second went out! Although, quite recently they were replaced . I decided to walk in a circle and check the whole world. And not in vain, because. the right foglight also joined the non-working neighbors. Scheme Front headlight Scheme Fog headlight I went to the car market and bought lamps: — low beam H7 2 pcs. Manufacturer:

Hello! The hood.))) When there is nothing to do, and the hands itch, an unhealthy attention to detail begins.) In general, everything works and functions normally in the car, but sometimes it is useful to prevent something, so that there would be fewer problems in the future. And I decided get to the connector under the battery boxes and find out its condition, because the work of electricians depends on it. Open the hood, remove the cover from the battery box. I waited five minutes to put the BSI to sleep and removed the quick release

Hello! Although the bortovik is empty, 205 is not abandoned. A few days ago he arrived from a trip that I had dreamed of for many years. Anniversary 205 GTi in Sochaux, France. While I prepare the text, here are a couple of photos for the seed. Still thesis and almost online can be seen on Instagram: Mileage: 200,000 km

On the drive was absent for a very long time. During this time in hp. many letters have been written. Naturally, they remained unanswered. No offense. I, too, am a person with a bunch of my own problems and affairs. But you should often pay attention to when the user last visited the site. This is indicated next to the avatar under the nickname. Call if you really need. There will be an opportunity to answer. +375445843727 Permanent presence on the site is not planned yet. P.s. many letters are never read. No time and normal internet

Good evening. Since the purchase of Bears, there was a small, not at all noticeable failure during acceleration. What I just didn’t do was change the injectors, clean them. Measured pressure. It seems to be normal, but when the gas hits the floor, it drops to 2.6, 2.7 bar and immediately stabilizes. What knocked me down, I didn’t think that the fault of all the troubles, it was the RDT that was to blame. And how much did the poor DMRV get))) But it turned out that everything was elementary. The response to the gas is instant, without any problems. On the old RDT, the arrow constantly marasily,

Once, having arrived home, the engine began to troit strongly and there was a slash of exhaust gases. The antifreeze is gone. It was decided to raise the cylinder head and as it turned out for good reason. Drove it into the garage and away we go. Parsing. The beginning of all beginnings Raised the valve, everything is fine It took a lot of time to disassemble everything, then there is no key, then it does not unscrew, but everything turned out well. I took out the cylinder head with a turbine, separately it will take more time. Without the cylinder head, the cylinder head was not very presentable, the channels are red, in corrosion. There are three

Thread cut 16×1.5 instead of 14×1.25 (native). I cut it without removing the pallet, while smearing the tap with graphics. So that the chips stick to the tap. The evenness of threading was controlled by a nut screwed onto the tap. That is, we bait the tap, take it out and then screw the nut onto it and tighten it tightly to the pallet. As the thread was cut, he tightened the nut, thereby controlling the plane, so that the nut would always be pressed exactly along the plane. New oil, filter and all. Lucky it came up

Before the inspection, it turned out to knock out two days at work to repair the car and away we go. 1. Replacing the front shock absorbers 2. At the same time supporting bearings 3. Support pads At the same time replacing the anthers of the axle shaft and ball joint oil seal in the box, for replacement On the right, I also changed the stabilizer rod, in general, the front suspension

Hi all! Actually, such a question is, due to age, the gear knob in my 406 fell into disrepair (cracked) ((Which of the owners of 406 solved the issue of replacing it (buy a used one or a new one from China?)

So, a year and 10k km have passed since the previous filter change. It’s time to change the engine air filter and fuel filter. The replacement process was described above, it is simple. But the condition of the air filter. Hmm, probably followed a smoky truck, but it’s still kind of overkill. Too grubby. Mileage: 162000 km

Hello! Today we will talk about correcting some of the stocks on the body from the date of purchase of the car. Rear bumper molding, right side. Also, on the right side of the rear wing, there was a dent hastily knocked out from the back. I think this is all the result of some kind of action that happened on the eve of the sale of the car. For I don’t see another explanation for such a clumsy knocking out of a dent. Well, okay. So I drove for five years, only later the varnish began to peel off in this place

Hello! I want to tell you about the work done and its results. A little earlier, I wrote that there were reasons to get into the engine, and I still decided on it. Gave the car to a friend and away we go. What was done by the capital can hardly be called, but it helped my engine. An autopsy showed that the hone in the sleeves (for 200,000 runs) is still excellent, which means it will live. The reason for the oil burner was in the oil scraper rings, they were heavily clogged. And of course the valve stem seals were

In the summer the stove stopped working. The speed was no longer regulated, the motor was spinning at the smallest speed, it did not react to the adjustment. Climbing on the drive, I realized that there can basically be two reasons, in the motor itself or in the resistance (hedgehog). Since I have climate control, the resistance is on the motor itself. Having removed the motor, I connected it directly from the battery, it works perfectly, it turns like crazy. I decided to change the resistance. I also read that you can remove the protective

Hello. In that year, when I went through the caliper, it was already clear then that it was necessary to change the edge of the right caliper bracket. She was boiled in three places. At the same time, the piston was also replaced, although it could still be left for a year. TRW staple, the quality is good, it immediately came assembled, which pleased me. It already had guides, anthers. Everything was smudged, and profusely. But in the box there was still a bag of lubricant. All good brakes)! P. S The photo shows the old guides that I lubricated

Sometimes in the morning you are going to go to work, you look, and birds poop on the car. Yes, not just a poop, but a feeling that an elephant was flying past. But they have reached a new level, they also run around cars. On the hood, lobash and seated on the railing.

Hello! What would you choose? Maybe there is a manufacturer of perpetual balls?) Interested in who put what and how much left. Here are my observations of Febi and Rts Visually one to one only the brand is different Febi as you know the packer. MOOG and stellox Both are made in Turkey Visually the same one to one not counting the brand Here someone is not MOOGА here is LMI, sasic and the second stellox (factory in China) fundamentally different

Sooner or later, almost every owner of the 407 sedan will face this, namely: breaking the wires in the corrugation going to the trunk lid, which causes a lot of trouble. I patched my wires several times. But all this is a temporary phenomenon, because. the insulation is cracking again, but in new places. The trunk stopped opening with the button on the lid, only with the key. I decided to replace the wires with new ones from the block in the niche and almost to the lock with softer ones. Can anyone come in handy: Orange

Giving back, I drove into a small ditch and if it weren’t for the pebbles that lay there, then everything would be fine. With these stones, I hooked the cork of the oil pan, thereby cutting off the thread. In the pit I saw that it was leaking from the cork, I wanted to tighten it, but it scrolls. As I understand it, the most normal option is to cut a new thread. The size of the cork that is old is 14×1.25 and you need to ream it by 16×1.25. I just can’t find a 16×1.25 cork. What is the best way to cut a new thread so as not to bevel

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