4 wheel alignment done, car still pulling to left.



I’ve just taken the 147 to Kwik-Fit for a 4 wheel alignment as the car pulls to the left on an even road.

After the alignment the car still pulls to the left. I’ll be going back to them tomorrow but wanted to get an idea of what I’m talking about first.

Can someone please have a look at the attached alignment sheet and advise if it is within spec or if they’ve done a crap job?

The only thing that appears to have changed much at all is the front right toe, but I’m a bit lost when looking at these figures.



David C


It has hugely different camber left to right on both the front and the rear.

It isn’t adjustable, but you can often equalise it by shifting the subframes.
A good alignment place will offer that service.

Audi TT 3.2v6 DSG
2012 Renault Twingo 1.2
xAlfa 156 Selespeed sp3 + Brembo conversion
Fiat Cinquecento 899cc





It’s my other halfs 147 and it was my suggestion to get an alignment done and Kwik-Fit was closest.

Am I just meant to write the first attempt off and ignore the £85 she’s already spent or is it worth going back to Kwik-Fit?



Front toe always equalises when the car is driven in a straight line on a flat level surface , though this doesn’t mean that the steering wheel will be completely straight. That the numbers as presented seem to suggest that front toe is ‘unequal’ is not correct, all this means is that the steering wheel be off centre (there are many other things that will cause this too, including the tyres).

As an aside, rear toe also equalises with respect to direction of travel, though if not set identically left and right the car will ‘crab’ to some degree, i.e. the ‘thrust angle’ will be off (has little to no affect unless hugely wrong, and yours is pretty good).

Rear camber is also quite good, but front camber is pretty bad (i.e. unequal). As suggested there is some small scope to equalise front camber by moving the front subframe laterally, but I doubt you’ll be able to move it enough. Moving the front subframe laterally by 10mm will change the camber on both sides by very near to 1°. You need to change front camber on both sides by a bit more than 0.5° to equalise (or near enough).

Right camber = 1° 54″ = 1.9°
Left camber = 0° 39″ = 0.65°

So, you’re ‘cross camber’ is 1.25°. You need to decrease right side camber by 0.625° and increase left side camber by the same amount (i.e. half of 1.25°) to get equal front camber. This means the subframe needs to be laterally moved by about 6mm, but I don’t think youll be able to move it more than about 3mm (from memory).

Unless you ‘slot’ the chassis holes that secure the upper wishbones to the chassis (more precisely the chassis holes by which the aluminium casting is attached to the chassis, the casting being what the upper wishbones are directly attached to), there is no other scope for adjusting front camber.

If the problem isn’t the result of accident damage, then I suspect you may have worn / softened / compressed / in some way distorted lower wishbone bushes (and / or possibly upper wishbone bushes too). Have a good look at all the wishbone bushes, if any are in any way suspect then they should probably be changed.

Case study, not a 147, but my wifes’ Saab 95 (Mac Struts) was recently suffering from quite vague steering and significantly pulling to the left (though front ‘cross camber’ was reasonably good, less than 0.5° difference side to side). When I got under the car and had an assistant turn the steering left and right I could see some (not huge) lateral and longitudinal wishbone movement centred on one of the front wishbone bushes (i.e. the front bush on the wishbone). The same bush on the other wishbone didn’t move detectably. I replaced these bushes on both wishbones and the steering is now much more precise and the left pull has disappeared.

Odd thing, with the wishbones on the bench, the bush in which some movement could be seen was obviously in much better condition than the one in which no movement could be seen (?). Both bushes seemed reasonably stiff when radially levered with a pry bar (when on the car), but I think both had become somewhat softened with age. From this experience I would consider suspect any bush in which any movement at all can be observed when the steering is turned. And, not totally convinced that a bush in which no movement can be observed when on the car is OK, it might not be.

PS, Have you checked the ball joints? It’s not good enough to check them just by wiggling the wheel with the car jacked up. This will usually show up a worn upper ball joint (non vertical load bearing), but not necessarily a worn lower ball joint (vertical load bearing). To check the lower ball joint you need to jack the wheel off the gound by jacking under the wishbone arm (removing vertical load from the joint, other than the downward load cased by the spring pre-load, weight of the suspension, brake and wheel), then using a lever placed under the tyre tread try to move the wheel vertically while looking for any vertical movement in the joint.