You must replace rotors every brake pad change?

Aleforge

Registered

My 2015 is already hitting 50k miles and needs some new pads. So I called two shops today and both of them told me they had to change the rotors out when the brake pads are changed. Something about not being able to turn them and something else about a wire. Both shops quoted me around 350.00 per axle.

What is the deal with that? Is that something you have to do on the newer models? My 2007 Jetta always could just have the pads changed out?

captainfantastic

Registered

Aleforge

Registered

I have one on the front with a tiny score on it. It’s not large or deep. I need to take a photo. Maybe I have no choice? I was told they could not be turned.

One thing I was going to ask today was in regards to the «wire» the shops keep talking about. I searched around and found out that VW’s have a brake pad wear indicator on them. I am wondering if the newer models all do or if it was an option? I am also curious if it’s just on the front axle. I read on here that VW’s tend to have rear bias, so maybe those are bad hence why I never got a warning light?

Anyhow my car is at just over 50k miles. Is that a normal amount for pad replacement? I assume the rotors if not damaged should last longer than that? Thanks for the help!

GrandpaBill

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Aleforge

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FLcruising

Registered

I used to have my rotors turned years ago. Most auto parts stores will do it for you. They have the specifications on file and will measure the thickness of the rotor faces to determine whether enough material is present. IMO, turning them diminishes their mass which makes them more prone to warping.

Are you opposed to changing them yourself for

4zfed

Registered

Disk Brakes — IMHO

1. They are brakes people, not breaks!
2. Rotor scoring, generally caused by metal deposits in the pads, is not a problem, unless and until it causes accelerated pad wear or uneven braking.
3. Replace pads when they get thin, replace rotors when they cause shuddering and or uneven braking (glazing?).
4. These days, turning rotors is rarely economically the best choice. It may cost a bit less than replacing but it leaves you with rotors that are less able to dissipate heat, which can lead to brake fade and/or shuddering (see below).
5. Changing the brake pads (pad slap) and/or rotors is easy and all men (and willing women) should learn how.
6. Most brakes-only shops are disreputable and many are outright thieves!
7. Brake fluid flushes can be done less frequently in arid climates.

The cause of brake shudder in the vast majority of cases is not a warped rotor, it is instead an unevenly worn rotor. Aggressive or high-speed braking, terminating with the pads in prolonged contact with the stationary rotor, causes the metal in that area under the pad to become harder and subsequently wear less than other parts of the rotor, leading to variations in the rotor surfaces (both sides). To minimize this phenomenon, you should release the brakes after aggressive or prolonged braking. In other words, if you slam on your brakes, or come down a steep hill, to a dead stop, don’t sit at the stop with your foot on the brakes. Release the brakes, even if you have to put the car in park while you wait. This will let the rotors cool evenly.

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